Thousand candle lights
whispers of forest night chant
burning incense pray.
Mt. Banahaw is a 2,177-meter dormant volcano that looms over the provinces of Quezon and Laguna, 170 kilometers southeast of Manila. It is also called "Bulkan de la Agua" (Volcano of Water) because of its numerous springs and waterfalls. It is considered the most sacred, mystical and spiritual mountain in the entire Philippines.
She serves as a home to numerous Christian cults led mostly by women priestesses who are usually prophetic mediums.
I learned about Mt. Banahaw when I read one of the books of Jaime Licauco back in the 80's. Since then,
I have wanted to go there but it was only when I settled back in the Philippines that I was summoned, so to speak.
I frequented this powerful psychic center for over a year on extended weekends camping on the grounds of Jerusalem, a small hamlet deep in the moss-covered forest.
In Jerusalem, the one who reigns supreme is an old woman called Nanay Akleng. She is spiritual healer and
high pristess of all sorts of people. From renegades, to reforming addicts; the emotionally and physically sick, to the common vagabonds and misfits. But she also has a following of rich patrons who stay with her on their pilgrims to the mountain. She runs her tightly knitted community with a firm hand but with motherly affection and understanding. She is a living witness to the mysteries of Mt. Banahaw and in one with the spirits of the mountain.
Above right & left:The first Buddhist shrine in Mt. Banahaw is surrounded by volcanic rocks leading to my forest lodge. Cave-like the overhead opens to the sky with thick hanging vines creating a kind of a ceiling. I asked Kampan, my best friend from Thailand, to come over and invoke prayers on the icon's installation in Mt. Banahaw. The lotus flowers on the unfinished altar were flown by him. I decorated the rock walls with small Buddhist votive tablets and genuine gold leaf. At, night when I light hundreds of candles, the gold shimmers against the dark rocks. Sitting in the center of my "cave" shrine alone in the evening, it feels eerie if not peaceful and inspiring.
Right: the high altar of Jerusalem built to conform with nature. There are no icons except the words "Amang Banal" or Sacred Father etched on the 40 foot moss-covered rock.
Nanay Akleng and I got close and after many visits staying with her, she offered me a "puwesto" or a spot for myself in Jerusalem. She was concerned about my physcial comforts. I don't need to pitch a tent anymore everytime I visit. Nobody can lay claim to this mountain but early settlers with strong spiritual intents are
acknowledged by the local and national government to have some informal rights. The "puwesto" I was given belongs to the founder of Jerusalem also the brother of Nanay Akleng. I was given the privilege to built my place over a rotting and crumbling ground room which I had to restore and reinforce to built on top.
Nanay Akleng also permitted me to built the first Buddhist shrine in Mt. Banahaw, a bastion of Christian-inspired faiths. Nanay Akleng told me one day, that in one of her dreams, she saw different flowers blooming in Jerusalem. She interpreted my coming into her community
as an affirmation of her vision that Jerusalem would one day become a crossroad of pilgrims with different persuasions. To express my solidarity with my adopted forest community, I sometimes join in their
prayers and supplication rituals that are haunting and deeply moving particularly because they are done in the evening. I wrote the haiku above the page to relive some moments I spend in Mt. Banahaw.
Above left: my unfinished forest lodge discreetly tacked on a mountain slope covered with vines and old trees. It is to be painted in comouflage so as to completely blend with the forest.
The construction of this very small structure took a long time. Every bit of construction materials were hauled to the forest, some 15-minute up hill treck. Unfortunately, the local workers I hired proved to be unreliable. After many months of trying to build this, my patience and equanimity runned out and I left it unfinished. I have not been back since then but I will return when I hear the call of Mt. Banahaw again. Will I ? I wonder.
Postscript: My last visit to Mt. Banahaw was sometime in the early 2002. The Department of Environment & Natural Sources (DENR) has declared the mountain off limits to visitors since 2004 for 5 years. I don't know if Nanay Akleng is still alive or who amongst her children have taken over Jerusalem. I am also not sure if the Buddhist shrine I left is still there or it has been desecrated and the Buddha statue stolen.
Related readings about Mt. Banahaw
The Altar of Mt. Banahaw by Troy Bernardo
Mt. Banahaw: The Altar of Heroes