DURING the last decade, a new type of textile has emerged in European collections. These are highly respected heirloom weavings which because of political and social changes the Lao Neua producers have been forced to sell. Many people of this ethnic group have left northern Laos and moved south, or crossed the Mekong River to reach Thailand.
As ancestral treasures and family heirlooms of symbolic significance, the splendid textiles were carefully stored and preserved by their owners. As a result a great number have survived, and can now be found in international art markets.
The weaving was executed on a floor loom with foot treadles, allowing the intertwining of separate threads of different colours to create intricate designs. Many complicated motif could be produced by combining silk with cotton yarns in a technique known as weft brocade.
In addition, for the most elaborate women's skirts, weft (crosswise thread) ikat was applied.
Weft ikat is a process of resist dyeing based on a technique of controlling the spread of dyes by binding parts of the yarn, which being covered do not come into contact with the dye and so remain uncolored; it is only the untied parts that absorb the dye. The application of resist can be skillfully controlled to create the desired pattern or motif. Even more complex designs can be executed by altering the position of the protected yarn areas after each immersion in color. Usually some
dye seeps under the resist material, blurring the edges of the designs. This gives the ikat a shimmering quality and a peculiar charm. The warp (lengthwise thread) ikat, made with silk threads, was once carried out to a high degree of excellence.
Unfortunately, the Lao Neua do not continue to weave in the original traditional style.
The antique textiles of this talented ethnic group, who once lived in the region surrounding the old capital of Sam Neua were made with natural dyes. Dominant
colors were purple, crimson, green, turquoise, indigo, light blue, lilac, yellow, orange, brown and black. The significance of the subtle use of tone and color is said to stem from the Buddhist belief in impermanence, non-substantiality and sufferance.. The most beautiful
pieces are completely abstract and contain an element of trompe-1'oeil.
Hidden animals appear where none was first seen and layers of inter-woven designs
can please the eye for many hours.
Ceremonial Lao textiles, being traditional and hereditary, are full of symbolic meanings whose design sources can seldom be recognized. Many, we do know, are animal derivations connected with confessions of faith and shamanistic practices. The Lao Neua believe in an infinite number of spiritual beings, whose supernatural powers they rely upon. Their spirits fill the earth, air and waters. Some are advisers and man's helpers, while others cause sickness or bring bad luck and misfortune. As a result the weavings and ceremonial garments are patterned with benevolent animals whose good influences may be helpful to the wearers. The mythical animals depicted ward off danger, mischief and disaster, while supporting good luck and blessings.
